Why Most Women Are Wearing the Wrong Size
Research consistently suggests that the majority of women — some studies suggest up to 80% — are wearing the wrong bra size. For larger-busted women, the most common error is a band size that is too large combined with a cup size that is too small: a 38D when the correct size might be a 32G. This error occurs partly because many retailers stock a limited size range and partly because the relationship between band and cup size (cup size is relative to band size, not absolute) is widely misunderstood.
How to Measure Correctly
The two measurements needed for bra sizing: Band size — measure around the body directly under the bust, parallel to the floor, tape snug but not tight. Round to the nearest even number — this is your band size. Bust measurement — measure around the fullest point of the bust, parallel to the floor, tape not tight. The difference between the bust measurement and the band measurement determines the cup size: 1 inch difference = A cup; 2 inches = B; 3 inches = C; 4 inches = D; 5 inches = DD/E; and so on, adding one cup letter per inch.
The most important thing to understand: cup size is relative to band size. A 32G and a 38G are completely different cup volumes — the 38G cup is much larger. This is why sister sizing works: a 32G, 34FF, and 36F all have the same cup volume but different band widths.
Signs of Poor Fit
Signs your bra is too small in the cup: breast tissue spilling over the top, sides, or bottom of the cup; the underwire resting on breast tissue rather than on the chest wall; cups that wrinkle or gap; centre gore (the bit between cups) not lying flat against the chest. Signs the band is too large: the back riding up; the bra moving around during wear; needing to tighten the straps excessively to get lift (straps should not be providing primary support). Signs the band is too small: band digging in painfully; red marks or indentations after wearing.
Where to Find Good Fit in Larger Sizes
Mainstream retailer size ranges (typically 32-38 A-DD) exclude most larger-busted women. Specialist retailers that stock extended sizes: Bravissimo (UK; up to size 40 and K cup); Figleaves; Curvy Kate; Fantasie; Elomi; and in the US, Nordstrom's extended range and specialist online retailers. The additional cost of specialist bras is justified by the health benefit of proper support — this is an investment in physical wellbeing rather than a luxury.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Signs include: breast tissue spilling over the cup; underwire resting on breast tissue; back of bra riding up; needing to tighten straps excessively; or red marks from the band. Any of these suggests poor fit.
Fasten on the loosest hook (you'll tighten as the bra stretches with wear); lean forward and let the breasts fall into the cups; adjust the straps so they are not digging in but not loose; and check that the centre gore lies flat against the chest.
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